Surfing big waves is sorta like striking a deal with the devil. On one hand, there’s the promise of glory, the best ride of one’s life, a thrill unlike anything else in everyday, pedestrian surfing; ...
(CNN) — Poised on a surfboard and dwarfed by a tower of water some 10 times her size, fear is one of the first emotions that big wave surfer Laura Crane feels before she hurtles down a 60-foot ...